Tampilkan postingan dengan label electronics. Tampilkan semua postingan
Tampilkan postingan dengan label electronics. Tampilkan semua postingan
EpicJefferson published a full tutorial on how to make Arduino based 3d drawing pen with 3d printed enclosure. It can sedn data to other software like Processing and uses an external motion tracking system (like Optitrack in the video)




Full build guide and all the files can be found at:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Wireless-3D-Drawing-Stylus/?ALLSTEPS

Here you can clearly see the internal electronics, battery and 3d printed shell with motion tracking points on the cap.





"Mr. Power Electronics" used his Prusa I3 to 3d print protective covers the high voltage terminals. Just a useful thing I found while browsing Tumblr.
































Project homepage:

http://dopeydavoid.tumblr.com/post/139514893558/3d-printing-is-useful-for-anything-and-everything

Here is a new 3d printable chorded keyboard project that is powered with Arduino Micro and can be used via BLE or USB. It was developed by 24hourengineer who has a nice DIY electronics blog.




Detailed build guide and code can be found at:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Chording-Keyboard-BLE-and-USB/?ALLSTEPS

For a different version take a look at:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2014/09/make-your-own-3d-printed-diy-chorded.html

Raspberry Pi foundation released 5 USD computer: the Pi Zero. Yes, it is truly revolutionary at 5 dollars. It will certainly find many applications in DIY projects and 3d printers.

Here are the video introductions:








More detailed Adafruit overview:





Raspberry Zero tech specs:
  • A Broadcom BCM2835 application processor
  • 1GHz ARM11 core (40% faster than Raspberry Pi 1)
  • 512MB of LPDDR2 SDRAM
  • A micro-SD card slot
  • A mini-HDMI socket for 1080p60 video output
  • Micro-USB sockets for data and power
  • An unpopulated 40-pin GPIO header
  • Identical pinout to Model A+/B+/2B
  • An unpopulated composite video header
  • smallest ever form factor at 65mm x 30mm x 5mm

Zero homepage:



Here is the Adafruit step-by-step guide on how to design 3d printable enclosure for the Zero:




... and here are more details on how to test and 3d print the enclosure:




You can download the file HERE,

Here is the first Raspberry Pi Zero hack adding a wifi module on it:

http://hackaday.com/2015/11/28/first-raspberry-pi-zero-hack-piggy-back-wifi/

You can add an ethernet port:

http://raspi.tv/2015/ethernet-on-pi-zero-how-to-put-an-ethernet-port-on-your-pi

...or audio output:

https://learn.adafruit.com/adding-basic-audio-ouput-to-raspberry-pi-zero?view=all

... and here is the more detailed review by Hackaday showing some problems and disadvantages:

http://hackaday.com/2015/12/01/raspberry-pi-zero-or-minus-one/


Things have truly changed trough the time...







Graphene 3D Lab Inc. from New York presented first FDM printed graphene based battery.

I couldn't find much additional information about energy output and capacity, but it looks scalable and something that could be reproduced and refined ...

Small step forward to new energy frontiers ...



















Retro Populator is an open source project by Eric Boyd that developed a kit for your 3d printer to convert it into pick and place machine suitable for small scale home electronics manufacturing.


Project description from hackaday.io:
A jig and software for allowing a 3D printer to do electronics pick-n-place assembly. It populates boards, by retrofitting a 3D printer, hence Retro Populator.

Motivation: surface mount soldering is great, but the process of placing parts is tedious and requires great manual dexterity as well good vision. Doing a few boards by hand is practical, but doing more than about 20 is hell on earth. Yet it's not practical (read: affordable) to pay industry to do it until about 500 boards - the setup charges just kill you. So there is this huge chasm between what's doable for hobbyists by hand, and where industry can take over, and this volume is commonly desired in the maker community - a small run of 50 to 100 boards is in fact typical. Thus, the desire to build machines that hobbyists can own to do electronics pick-n-place. Our cost-saving idea is to retrofit similar machines that makers already own: 3D printers.

Team:
Rob Gilson
Adam Evenden
Charles Hartlaub
Eric Boyd
There are several versions of Retro Populator being developed:
Version 1.0 : Essentially complete now. CNC milled acrylic base plate, with milled tape holders. Vacuum syringe for picking up parts, vacuum supplied by SMT rework station. Milled nozzle mount which attaches to the side of the existing extruder. Z-axis rezero jig to easily change re-zero height. 3D printed cam-lock parts to holds boards in place on 10mm peg-grid base. Code parses a yml file for board & tape placement info, and then an eagle .brd file directly for part types and locations. It generate a gcode file which goes from pick to place location for all of the parts which can be populated. Support for
multiple boards.

Version 2.0: currently in planning/design. Addition of tape advancement, including plastic cover peeling. Addition of a second nozzle which will do solder paste dispensing. Software will have 'position confirm' feature where it will move to the corner of each board, and the first component on each tape, so that you can verify key locations directly before running the entire job.

Version 3.0: part rotation. Numerous other things we'll learn about as we do V2.0, no doubt...

Detailed information and instructions:
http://hackaday.io/project/1605-Retro-Populator




Mind map and overview of the project in pdf format:

http://sensebridge.net/files/RetroPopulatorMap_V101.pdf


Maybe we will soon have thousands of small electronics factories in garages competing with corporate sector ...
But first who should be afraid of this competition are companies like Adafruit ... they are in the same market as those "hobbyists" ...







"Jake" and "hzeller" developed a project where KiCAD (open source electronics board development software) files are converted into g code to enable solder past dispensing with a DIY 3d printer on electronic boards.

They hacked a Type A machines printer into home manufacturing solder paste dispenser. The dispenser uses solder paste (aka. solder cream) applied trough syringe with air pressure. The team behind the project still has not released hardware specifications and details.

This project is interesting since it could enable anyone to make low cost desktop home manufacturing station and produce series of electronics boards.

The syringe dispenser pressure unit can be done at home workshop, here is a different project for reference:

https://www.sparkyswidgets.com/portfolio-item/diy-solder-paste-dispenser/

Solder paste is heated after dispensing on electronics board surface to melt and fuse the conection closing the electric circuit.


Here is the original code for solder paste dispensing that converts KiCAD files to g-code:

https://github.com/hzeller/rpt2paste

the project is further developed to include pick-and-place capabilities:

https://github.com/hzeller/rpt2pnp

Now you can start your own small desktop electronics factory :-)






I will get a Raspberrry Pi soon so I wanted to see what can bt done with it beside using it as a server, so I found that you could use a Pi and its GPIOs to directly control the stepper drivers, fan, heater and other aspect of a 3d printer without any additional processing electronics. So, entire 3d printer is controlled by a single Raspberry Pi only.

First project I found was the one by  Owen Jeffreys who actually calls it "The World's First Raspberry PI 3D Printer" and it was reported on many 3d printing blogs.





Owen's project description:
This video briefly outlines the building and testing of a unique, home-built, 3D printer which uses a Raspberry PI as its "brain" or CPU.
If you Google (or Bing!) Raspberry PI 3D printer you will find several people who claim to have made "Raspberry PI *Powered* 3D Printers", but if you examine them in detail, they are not actually *powered* by the Raspberry PI at all. These people use the standard firmware which comes with the 3D printer and replace the PC interface with the Raspberry PI - hence the PI is not controlling/powering the printer at all, but simply sending buffered GCODE commands to the pre-built printer and acting as a neat user interface to display print progress etc. This unique 3D printer is not like those; the PI actually controls every part of the machine including, but limited to the motors, heaters and temperature sensors. The 800MHz PI runs the time-critical (virtually real-time), dedicated program with great ease making it possible for a 3-dimensional, plastic (ABS or PLA) model to be printed layer by layer.
This 3D printer was designed and built as an individual, level 3, engineering project, chosen by me as I owned a PI and wanted to do something useful and unique with it which would help people who dismiss the PI to realise that it is capable of a lot more than they could possible imagine. It was a very challenging task covering a whole range of engineering fields. Almost every part of the 3D printer was made from scratch, including, but not limited to, the circuit board, the aluminium framework, the drive system and the C++ program to run on the PI.
The PI can be hooked up to a HDTV or laptop to display the print progress and other useful information, or it can run completely stand-alone. The 3D printer runs at around ¼ speed compared to a typical, hobby 3D printer (e.g. RapMan, Cube or Touch), taking around 25 hours to print a 60mm high chess piece – the speed only limited by the stepper motor choice and gearing.
It took approximately eight months to complete and would not have been possible without the help from family, friends, teachers and instructors. In particular, the help from an exceptional teacher and project supervisor, Laurence Hyett, was invaluable and very much appreciated. Although this 3D printer works, the project is not entirely complete - there is still room for improvement. One such improvement which is underway is to modify the interface board used to connect the PI to the 3D printer from a hand-etched, double-sided PCB to a compact “shield” which will stack neatly on top of any PI. Faster print speeds and a twin print head are also being considered.
Any common 3D CAD package can be used to create a 3D model which can be sent to the PI to be printed, alternatively a 3D model from a collection of many thousands can be downloaded from Thingiverse for free. The test piece in this video was designed by me using a professional 3D modelling package widely used in the CG film world, but there are a number of cheap or even free packages which are just as good. I'd personally recommend "Blender" for those that are interested, as it is a completely free, open source, community contributed project which is unbelievingly powerful
Owen has not yet released any code with his project.
In response to this claim, Colin aka. "Wallacoloo" commented that there are probably three projects developed earlier and one of them is his called the Printipi.

Printipi is well documented on GitHub with all the code available:

https://github.com/Wallacoloo/printipi

Printipi project description:
Printipi is a software package designed to bring 3d printing to the Raspberry Pi. It takes on all of the roles generally given to dedicated microcontrollers (interfacing with stepper drivers, temperature control of the hotend, and cooling fans) while also running under an operating system. This means that the same device that is running the firmware can also perform other tasks while printing, such as hosting a web interface like Octoprint.
Although called Printipi, it is not necessarily limited to running on the Pi. The Example machine can compile and run on most Linux machines, as a proof of concept (it does no electrical I/O), and new machines can be supported by implementing a handful of interfaces (see the section below for more info). 
Printipi also aims to support a multitude of printers including typical cartesian printers, delta-style printers like the Kossel, or polar-based printers - without the messy use of hundreds of #defines, some of which may not even be applicable to your printer. Instead, each machine type gets its own file and C++ class under src/drivers/machines that exposes its coordinate system and peripherals through a handful of public member functions and typedefs. In this way it is possible to add support for a new type of printer without digging into the guts of Printipi.




Third project is piPrint by Ian D. Miller and Kenan Bitikofer

piPrint is well documented on GitHub with all the code available, but it is under heavy developemnt:
https://github.com/iandouglas96/piPrint





and fourth project is by Dado Sebo but no further information is available:



Using Pi is not an optimal solution but it is interesting project, there will probably bi more developments in the future.




















"Robots are hard to drive. ROBOPuppet exists to make them easier to drive." This is a first sentence on ROBOpuppet "About" page and it explains this project perfectly.

ROBOpuppet is basically a miniature copy of full size industrial robot that you can move and use it as simple low cost control unit. All the movements of the ROBopuppet are followed by the big robot.

This teleoperation control unit can be made for as low as 85 USD. 

http://www.iu.edu/~motion/robopuppet/

You can make this robot control unit yourself. All the files and instructions are published at:

http://www.iu.edu/~motion/robopuppet/method.html
























Chorded keyboard is a computer keyboard where you get characters by pressing several keys at the same time.
This input method should improve speed, make your keyboard one hand usable, smaller and mobile or just make you look like ultra cool elite hax0r.

There are many different projects and now there is a Chordy KEY project with 3d printable case.




Chordy KEY combinations. Well, there is a learning curve if you want to be cool ...






























Project homepage on hackadayio :

https://hackaday.io/project/2115

GitHub repostiory with all the details and STL files:

https://github.com/Madfellows/Arduino/tree/master/Chording%20keyboard

From project description:
Chording keyboards have been around for a while, but appear to not be taken seriously. Although you can see many data entry methods throughout science fiction but usually involve hundreds of buttons that require the user to look at them and appear to be hard to work in adverse conditions or with bulk such as gloves.
The chording keyboard can take on many different shapes and easily used with one hand. The keys can be easily acquired without the use of pips and build with proper spacing to be used with gloves. The lower amount of keys used makes the manufacturing of the device cheaper and simpler.
This project is a completed left hand proof of concept chording keyboard that currently has all functionality of a standard keyboard minus function keys and plenty of combinations to add them and many macros. The base microcontroller is a ATmega32U4 packaged as a sparkfun pro micro, 8 buttons and 6 indicating leds the case is 3d printed and backed with craft foam.

For standard 3d printed keyboard look at:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2015/03/photo-log-of-3d-printing-fully.html

New chorded keyboard project:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2015/12/3d-printable-chording-handheld-keyboard.html






And it comes in 3d printed enclosure resembling fictional weapons from Dune universe.

If you don't know what Dune is or are unfamiliar with Weirding Modules, you should really do some reading and movie watching. The design is based on Beast Rabans pistol. Those DAMN Harkonnens ... I can only wish that Adafruit makes something Atreides or Fremen based ... just to bring more balance ...

As all Adafruit projects it comes with detailed instructions and documentation.

If you want to build one or learn more about ultrasonic distance measuring go to:

https://learn.adafruit.com/ultrasonic-ruler





























... spice must flow ...

Pi Top is DIY laptop kit based on Raspberry Pi and aimed at education and students. The team used 3d printing to prototype the casing. Maybe they could release the files and open source the project for the people who want to build it completely on their own and not buy it in kit form.

Pi Top features (from the project page):
  • Free Hardware Innovation Lessons: Pi-Top is where it starts. We will be building new content for Pi-Top users.Learn to 3D print, design PCBs and create your own products from start to finish. 
  • No Compromising on Quality: Mobile designs often use Bluetooth keyboards, that took away from the user experience. Enjoy using Raspberry Pi with a fully integrated laptop keyboard and track-pad with extra ports.
  • Easy Component Access: A clear sliding panel allows access to the Raspberry Pi. Kickstarter DAY 1 editionPi-Tops will feature a lazer-etched panel design, as well as the standard clear panel.
  • Raspbian Operating System: Once built your Raspberry Pi is ready to go. Start learning to program on the latest Raspbian OS.
  • 6 - 8 Hour Battery Life & Wifi enabled: Battery time 6+ hours. Wifi enabled out of the box, Pi-Top is truly mobile. 
  • 13.3" Screen: No compromising on screen size. Enjoy using your Raspberry Pi with a 13.3" HD screen.




























Pi Top homepage: http://www.pi-top.com/

Reddit thread where they presented their 3d printed prototype:

http://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/2g0opb/fullsized_3d_printed_laptop_prototype_pitop_print/

They used the following setup:
  • Printer used: Rostock Max V2 kit - with E3D full metal hotend
  • Filament: PLA 1.75mm nozzle: 205 Bed temp: 55 Speed: 70mm/sec
  • Print time: 3 prints total (two pieces together and the two larger pieces seprately) roughly 160 hours of printing
  • Support settings: KISSlicer with medium support, at 45 Degrees with a horizontal gap (from object) of 1mm.
  • De-string Settings: Prime 5.5mm Suck: 5.4mm Wipe:5mm Z-lift: 1mm
  • Notes from the creators: "PLA really keeps its shape well. We had to use floating beams in the STLs to achieve a rigid enough support structure so the model wouldn't wobble after 10 inches tall and ruin the print. We found KISSlicer worked the best in terms of support structure."





Adafruit people have published a new project. It's a functional, 3d printed in PLA, blinky-LED strips-robot helmet usually worn by some guys who call themselves Daft Punk.

Detailed instructions are on Adafruit learning system:

https://learn.adafruit.com/3d-printed-daft-punk-helmet

You can find it on Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:450512
























On personal note: I hate Daft Punk and childish noises void of any emotion they make and call music ... but if you are a fan, more power to you!



Hiv0ltage developed a DIY manual heated bed temperature controller and created a construction guide. It looks easy to assemble and implement. It is a work in project and the guide will be updated.




It is based on 555 PWM controller



























Detailed construction guide:

http://www.instructables.com/id/3D-printer-heated-bed-temperature-Controller/



Mikey77  is well known for his tutorial on how to 3d print an electronic circuit. Now he has a new tutorial worth checking out if you are into  DIY electronics. It's a method on etching and making flexible or conductive fabric electronic circuits by 3d printing a Ninjaflex flexible filament on them and etching the surplus away.



































Full guide:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-Flexible-Circuit-Boards-Using-A-3D-Printer/?ALLSTEPS







What is Activ8? Here is the description from their KS page:

The Activ8 is a hand-held, touch screen device that comes preloaded with a carefully crafted suite of applications designed to make the operation of a 3D printer easy and efficient for both professionals and enthusiasts.
The Activ8 combines the best open source software created by the 3D printing community with our own custom operating system to produce an elegant and powerful new way of interacting with your 3D printer. The operating system has been specially designed to be compatible with any RepRap based 3D printer.
It is our goal to have the Activ8 working with every RepRap based 3D printer and we are currently continuing to test the Activ8 with every available board we can get our hands on. Whilst there is no reason why any RepRap board shouldn't work (all the drivers come preloaded in the OS), we can only guarantee that they work with the ones we have physically tested, which are:
Melzi, Printr Board, Arduino/RAMPS, Duet, RUMBA and Rambo.

We will continue to update this section throughout the Kickstarter campaign. If your unsure whether or not your board type will work or would like to find out if it is currently being tested, please contact us and we will get back to you as soon as possible.
We are also committed to continually updating the firmware and adding to the number of supported printer boards beyond this campaign.

 Activ8 is preloaded with many software tools:
  • Active 3D Pronterface - Custom version of Pronterface which incorporates Slic3r, with a .STL and .Gcode 3D viewer and plater. 
  • Repetier-Server - A multi-printer, multi-connection printer server that handles the communication with 3d printers. 
  • RepG - Drives MakerBot Replicator, Thing-O-Matic, CupCake CNC, RepRap machines and generic CNC machines.
  • Slic3r, Cura and Skeinforge -programs convert a 3D model into G code instructions for a 3D printer. Most printers are designed to work optimally with one of these programs
  • Octorprint - An application that allows you to operate your 3D printer wirelessly.
  • Meshlab - Allows for the processing and editing of unstructured 3D triangular meshes. 
  • Web browser - An integrated Web Browser that can be used to access and download all your favourite 3D designs straight from the internet.
  • Physical and Virtual keyboard - Key to any touch screen device is the inclusion of a virtual keyboard, which was created to fully utilize all the space on a 10 inch touchscreen. There is also a wireless keyboard alternative that comes packaged with every Activ8. 
  • Custom OS - All these programs come packaged in custom Operating System built on Debian Linux OS.
























Activ8 technical specifications:



It will be made in in Tunbridge Wells, United Kingdom. Wow. Electronics made in Europe!

Activ8 Kickstarter where you can get it for 300 - 350 £:

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1177632968/activ8-a-touch-screen-device-and-os-for-your-3d-pr

Company homepage:  http://www.active3d.co.uk/




If you want to detect metal underground and you have a 3d printer, Arduino, some wire and PVC pipes, you can start to build this DIY contraption.

There are links to several how-to guides in this post based both on Arduino and Intel Galileo controller. You can use 3d printed and parts cut from plywood.

All the files needed for the detector coil and other parts: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:416163

Here is the projects homepage: https://solar1.net/drupal/metal_detector

He uses this metal detector project as the basis: http://dzlsevilgeniuslair.blogspot.dk/2013/07/diy-arduino-based-metal-detector.html


3d printed metal detector coil



Owning a metal detector is not prohibited in my country (Croatia) but using it to find anything of historical values could be heavily punished. I'll need to think if I will make this detector. Maybe in the future.

Update:

I found another 3d printed DIY metal detector project developed by Paulo Bubolz from Brazil. It is controlled by Raspberry Pi. Files for it are not released yet ...























Update 2:

Here is a plywood frame and Intel Galileo based DIY metal detector with LED strip indicator. Very detailed guide is available at:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Metal-Detector-2/



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