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Homebuild Smoothing Tumbler for 3D Printed Parts

Mancave developed this simple to build tumbler for smoothing 3d printed parts. It works best with metallic filaments like Bronzefill and simillar. It tumbles the part with small screws giving it shiny and smooth surface.

Here is the build and operation video:

Here is the video of Coperfill skull being processed and polished:

Shiny and smooth skulls:

rBot 3D Printable CNC Mill with IKEA Work Surface

Michael Reitter developed a homemade 3D printable CNC mill which uses a IKEA MALM table as working surface. Probably the coolest IKEA hack ever.

rBot in action:

You can learn more about it and get all the information needed to build it at project homepage:

https://rbotcnc.wordpress.com/

All the files for 3d printing the parts:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1195229

Someone note in the comments that this is a CNC router. So, what is a different between CNC mill and CNC router?

"A CNC router will usually have a large X and Y range and short Z... A router will typically be able to do soft materials like wood, plastic, and maybe aluminum... But overall, it won't have the most rigid structure (like this one which is 3d printed)

A CNC Mill will have a relatively smaller X and Y with a larger Z than a router... A mill will be able to cut hard materials like steel... And thus will have a very rigid structure so that it can accurately cut those materials."
More info at:

http://hobbymilling.com/the-difference-between-a-mill-and-a-router/

David's Completely Custom rPrint 3D Printer

David has developed his own 3d printer with almost all parts that are custom made including electronics and software. Kudos David!

It is wrapped into a nice bubble enclosure:

Short project description:

David tells us how he designed his rPrint 3D printer, the printer for pirates!
A university project he has been working on for the last 9 months.
Everything is custom, including the world's lightest weight direct drive extruder head, Sarrus linkage build plate, linear rail guides, and his awesome bubble enclosure.
Not to mention his own custom controller, gcode interpreter, and highly optimised C++ string libraries.

Very detail video worth watching f you are deep into 3d printeting mechanics and electronics:

EEVBlog forum thread about this printer:

http://www.eevblog.com/forum/blog/eevblog-843-david's-rprint-3d-printer/

More written details:

http://www.3ders.org//articles/20160128-davids-unique-rprint-3d-printer-stands-out-in-both-function-and-form.html

Simple DIY Air Heat Exchanger You Can Make With Your 3D Printer

Air heat exchanger is a useful ventilation system part that will enable you to save energy while maintaining a good air flow in your enclosed space. It uses the outgoing air form the heated space to warm the cold air that is going from outside. Heat is thereby recovered and energy consumption for heating decreased.
They are mostly used in passive or low-energy houses or buildings, but they can be used in most insulated spaces. There are also applications where you can cool the air coming in.
The entire system is also called Heat Recovery Ventilation (HRV). You maintain air flow which improves indoor air quality, reduces bacteria and mold buildup, stabilizes the moisture but you don't need to open the windows and still keep some 70-80% of heat that would normally be wasted.

Yvo de Haas developed a small DIY 3d printable version that he implemented in his house with excellent results. The heat exchanger itself is printed in PLA while tubing is standard PVC with standard 60mm fans to drive the air. The electric fans can be noisy but they can be easily replaced with quieter ones.

He developed two versions of this DIY HRV: one that is partialy 3d printed and one that is fully 3d printed.

Here is what Yvo writes about the fully 3d printed unit tech specs:

The completely 3D printed version is, as the name suggests, completely 3D printed. To make it I modified my Ultimaker with an E3D V6 with 0.25mm nozzle.

The walls of the exchanger are 0.3mm thick. The outside dimensions of the exchanger are 15x8x7cm but it has an internal surface area of around 1000cm² (1/10th of a square meter or about a square foot). It is printed in PLA and takes around 10 hours to print at 0.16mm layer thickness.

With special adapters it can fit 60mm fans and all the other adapters I have designed special adapters were printed to connect the 60mm fans to the 3D printed exchanger.

Fully 3d printed heat exchanger element. Here is where the magic happens.

Heat exchanger installed on the window with fan ventilators attached.

Yvo measured and logged the temperature data:

The 4 temperatures (unit does not matter):
Hot in (the warmer air that enters the hot side of the exchanger)
Hot out (the warmer air that exits the cool side of the exchanger)
Cool in (the cooler air that enters the cool side of the exchanger)
Cool out (the cooler air that exits the hot side of the exchanger)

Does it work?

The answer, YES. After running for over 8 hours while I was at work, the air was a lot fresher. Usually when I come home there is a certain staleness to the air, but now I came home to nothing. Just nice air. I had the logger running for the entire time. The test started around 8 o'clock, every number on the X is 6 seconds. There are 3 zones of interest.

0-3000: Here the air outside is slowly heating up. Temperatures around this point are: HI: 17°C, HO: 10°C, CI: 6°C, CO: 14.5°C, giving 63.6% for the hot flow and 77.3% for the cool flow, averaging 70.5%.

3000-4000: Here the sun hits the window and there is a spike in temperature. No useful data can be gathered from this time.

4000-6000: The air outside is slowly cooling. Temperatures around this point are: HI: 17°C, HO: 12°C, CI: 8°C, CO: 15°C, giving 55.6% for the hot flow and 77.8% for the cool flow, averaging 66.7%.

Full construction tutorial with heat exchange data charts can be found at:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Heat-Exchangers-and-3D-Printing/?ALLSTEPS

Project homepage and all the files needed to make this heat exchanger:

http://ytec3d.com/3dp-heat-exchanger/

Learn more about energy recovery ventilation here:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_recovery_ventilation

If you want to build full size DIY heat exchanger from coroplast here is a full video tutorial by YT user "Designed By Instinct":

For a page dedicated to DIY solar, heating, cooling and ventilation solutions, plans and user experiences including HRV check out:

http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/SpaceHeating/Space_Heating.htm#HRV

3D Printed Watch with Tourbillon Mechanism

Christoph Laimer devloped a working 3d printable analogue watch with Tourbillon mechanism.

Here is how he describes his project:

This is a mechanical watch with tourbillon and going barrel. The watch has a Swiss lever escapement, embedded in the tourbillon. It is driven by a 3d-printed spring, and runs 35 Minutes (a wire retraction spring made from steel would perform better). My watch is running with less than 0.5 Seconds deviation within one Minute.
The project demonstrates that the 3D-printing technology is developing. Compared with earlier generations of 3d-printers, the process works more reliable and more accurately.
The watch is designed with Autodesk Fusion 360, and printed with Ultimaker 2.

It is truly a masterpiece and work of great craftsmanship:

You can get all the files and 3d print it yourself:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1249221

Here you can see a watchface and a parts of a spring mechanism. Layers of PLA are also clear to see.

DIY Crossbow Trigger Mechanism Made With 3D Printing

"DIY Dudes" made a DIY crossbow with aluminum rails and PVC pipe bow but the trigger mechanism is fully 3d printed. The trigger group is the most complex part of the crossbow and as video shows it is fully operational.

There is the video of the crossbow in action:

The files for the trigger mechanism were not released but you could reverse engineer them from the drawings.

Project homepage:

http://diydudes.com/3d-printed-crossbow/

If you are interested in making a PVC crossbow for under 10 USD here is a step-by-step guide video by Nicholas Tomihama:

Multistruder DIY Filament Extruder

Multistruder is a new Arduino controlled filament extruder that can enable you to make your filament directly from the pellets.

KS video:

Project description from the project page:

How is the Multistruder Different From Other Filament Extruders:

The Multistruder is designed to do be a multi purpose plastic extrusion tool. In other words it is designed to do more than just make filament. This is done by swapping out modular parts on the extruder (ex: Injection Molder (hint hint)). More details coming soon.
Open source and easily modable Arduino microcontroller "brain" making it very user friendly to control and configure and the ability to add various expansion modules to give you better extrusion performance.
Only need to interact with the Arduino brain. Then the Arduino sends those instructions to everything else.
TFT Full Color Touchscreen is included standard for easy realtime feedback and complete user friendly control of your extruder (Almost like using a phone)
All Metal Construction making for a durable extruder allowing for a long service life and less issues in the long run while still allowing ease of modability for the user.
Drive Motor Control allowing for precise control of extrusion speed.
Expansion Module support for spoolers, diameter control, etc. Whether you make your own or you buy them.
Multiple vertical mounting options.
The Multistruder comes 95% ready to go (as well as tested) out of the box all you have to do is install it in your work space, add plastic then your ready to extrude filament.
Vertical Space Saving design: estimated to take up about 15" H x 15" L 6" W
SOMETHING IS REQUIRED TO MEASURE DIAMETER OF FILAMENT EX. CALIPERS.

Specs Of Prototype ( Production version > Prototype version):

Extrusion Speed: <~3 feet per minute (extrusion speed will be tuned by controller to get filament diameter consistency).
1 Kg Spool: <~ 8 Hours
RPM: ~10 RPM
Torque: ~167 kg.cm
1.75mm extrusion cap (you can ask for 1.75mm or 3.00mm)
110 Watt Heater + 5 Watt Controller + 24 Watt Motor = so max = ~139 Watts. True wattage is alot less than 139 around 84 as the heater band is not always on
~2 Cents/hour operating cost at 15 Cents/kWh
Extrusion Temp: up to ~400C

Here is a Multistruder development blog:

http://www.thegreenengineers.com/index.php?/blogs/blog/1-multistruder-dev-blog/

They had a successful KS campaign:

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1718006136/multistruder-filament-extruder/description

Factory In A Closet

Spiritplumber developed a small DIY digital fabrication manufacturing cell in his closet. He has made and installed a 3D printer, hybrid tool (extruder / laser cutter / liquid printer) and organometallic filament maker.

Very cool setup Spiritplumber! :-)

Do you see a smoke detector surrounded by burn marks? :-) Lesson to be learned there ...

Dremel Cutting Platform Made With 3D Printing

Dremel tools or their clones are very useful for everyday work. Now you can 3d print an adjustable cutting platform for them.

Here is a demonstration video:

All the files to make it can be found at:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:722314

Look, it can even cut trough metal rods and it will protect you from all the sparks flying :-)

Laser Engraver from Discarded DVD Drives with 3D printed Frame

If you have few old DVD drives and an Arduino Uno you can make a simple laser engraver for some 15 USD. The supporting frame can be 3d printed or made from any material you can hack.

Here is the video of the same design with standard frame:

All files can be found at:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:375828

Detailed instructions are at:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Pocket-laser-engraver/?ALLSTEPS

3D Printable Transformable Spider Robot

Someone on Instructables posted a full tutorial and files for nice Arduino controlled little transforming spider robot. It walks on its "legs" and drives on the wheels. Cool!

Spiderbot in action:

Detailed construction guide can be found at:

http://www.instructables.com/id/3D-printed-Transformers-Robot-Spiderbot/

Anatomy of the spider transformer:

Repairing fridge light switch with 3d printing

Nicholas Durdan, well known for using his 3d printer to repair broken parts on his Ford Focus made a DIY 3d printed replacement for a broken fridge light switch.

It is a perfect example of how home digital fabrication is changing the nature of replacement part economics.

Identify the broken part...

... design the replacement piece ...

3d print and replace!

3D Printable DIY Tube Horn Speaker Setup

Here is a simple and interesting design of 3d printable DIY speaker in tube horn configuration.

Detailed guide, files and BOM can be found at:

http://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-Horn-Speaker/?ALLSTEPS

Big 3D Printed Bolt and Longest Wooden Crossbow

Joerg Sprave is master of crazy slingshots and archery devices. In his latest video he tests a large 3d printed arrow printed by Myminifactory and his big big rubber band crossbow pistol.

Bolt was tipped with a big metal nail and it penetrates a wooden target:

Compilation Of Tutorials On How To Build A 3D Printer Or Small CNC From Junk Parts

Here is a small tutorial links compilation that will grow in the future on how to make a simple and ultra cheap 3d printer or CNC from reclaimed or junk electronic and structural parts. Tutorials are very detailed and will help you to start with this technology, educate someone or save some parts form trash.

Beginners junk optical drive DIY 3d printer

Instructables guide:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Complete-newbie-step-by-step-3D-printer-with-all-p/

CD/DVD Drive CNC-3D Printer

Here is another machine made from discarded optical drives it is used as small CNC and plotter.

Step-by-step build guide:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Compact-CNC3D-Printer/

Ad(strap)apto

This is a hackable 3d printer based on common drawer runners or rails. You can purchase them or take them from junk furniture.

Detailed construction guide:

http://www.instructables.com/id/A-low-cost-3D-printer-with-basic-tools/

Rugged and raw DIY style ... it is worth to gut some kitchen cabinets to build it ...

Repstrap 3d printer that is easy and cheap to make with timber pieces structure

Here is very simple, low cost and easy to make wooden Repstrap 3d printer presented on Thingiverse developed by user "skeat". It has a relatively small print volume (120mm x 120mm x 100mm) but it was designed as very simple and cheap machine to produce 3d printed parts for your "bigger" machine.
You will need only few common hand tools and materials. The structural frame is made from 12.5mm x 24mm wood pieces and 6mm plywood held by screws and liquid nails.

The design is based on Prusa i3, so the vitamins needed are:

6x smooth rods
1x M5 threaded rod
11x LM8UU linear bearings
4x stepper motors
2x 608 ball bearings
pulley and belts
1x coupling

Only 3d printed part is the extruder.

I love the design style:

Here is video of it in action:

All the details and building instructions can be found at:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:452770

To see more wood frame printers, with some that need no 3d printed or cnc cut parts, go to:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2013/11/diy-3d-printers-made-from-wood.html

MSF 3d printer is work of a Repstrap genius

This wonderful DIY 3d printer was made by peterthinks and it is a work of a Repstrap genius with its improvisations, innovations and rough design. The entire machine cost around 120 USD and it will get even cheaper.
I'm a big fan of wood frame machines and building stuff with anything you got available.

Here is the presentation of MSF 3d printer (you will find out what MSF acronym stands for later on in the description ...):

Here is MSF moving:

From project description:

This is not a kit. This is an introduction to the Monkey Shit Fight repstrap RepRap. It is seeking it's end-stops as it prepares to print a louse. That's me mumbling in the background trying to not sound like a crazy shut-in.

It's super easy to put together and I want to make a laser cut version. I've eliminated almost all the parts associated with traditional RepRaps. Not including the base I have the entire machine frame down to 10 wood parts. I will have the kit down to about 7 laser cut parts and 4 of those will be exactly the same dimensions. Pretty simple stuff!

I built this for about $120. That includes all electronics, motors and materials. Eliminating one of the Z axis motors really lowered the part count and increased the Z resolution. The V grove pulleys do double duty in that regard. They multiply the lifting force of the motor and increase the number of steps required to move up a millimeter. All the design changes I have made to improve this RepRap including fixed drive belt sections attached to metal edging, using Kevlar to tension the frame,

The blind nut adjusters for the Z axis smooth rod leveling, The flying gantry X carriage, The single motor Z axis pulley and carriage bolt Kevlar suspension system for the X carriage and the silicone tubing tensioning idler for the Y axis are all free to use for private non commercial use under the GPL licence. So if you wanna use these improvements on your own personal machine feel free. If you want to use these in a kit or sell upgrades for commercially available machines you'll need permission.

The build area is about 250 by 350 by 200 millimeters but I got it dialed down to match the heated bed till I can make a bigger one. All work was done with simple hand tools. The most exotic tools used were a Dremel a cheap drill press and a ancient one speed hand drill.

MSF Repstrap parts list:

1 Sheet of plywood for base
2 Y rod wood ends
4 wood screws to attach Y rod ends
2 sections smooth rod for Y axis

2 Z rod wood ends
2 wood screws to attach Z rod base
2 hose clamps to secure Z rod top
2 sections smooth rod for Z axis

2 wood adjustment horns for top of Z axis
2 blind nuts
2 bolts
2 wood screws to attach horns to top of Z axis
1 washer
1 screw
2 bearings
1 V groove bearing cover

1 Z axis motor
1 long hex nut drilled to take a pin
1 pin
1 nut
1 carriage bolt
1 carriage bolt end guide
1 bracket
2 wood screws to attach bracket to bolt guide
1 wood brace for Z string idlers
2 Z string idlers
2 screws to attach Z string idlers
1 length 150 pound Kevlar for Z axis string
1 counterweight for end of Z string
(Most of the Z axis top assembly will become 1 laser cut part later)

1 base for Y axis
1 Y axis motor
1 motor pulley gear
1 set screw
1 length of belt
1 length of aluminum molding
4 linear bearings
12 wood braces to box in the four bearings
4 screws
4 washers
4 springs
1 heated bed
1 sheet of glass
4 spring clips
1 length silicone tubing
2 screws to attach tubing to brackets
2 brackets to attach tubing to Y axis base

1 base for X carriage
4 linear bearings
4 sticks to brace bearings
8 zip ties to attach bearings
3 screws
6 bearings
3 V groove bearing covers
1 length of belt
1 length of aluminum molding
3 lock nuts

4 stepper drivers
1 ramps
1 arduino
3 endstops
2 thermistors
wires

1 hotend
1 hotend heater

1 extruder motor
3 base parts for extruder
1 screw
3 bolts
2 nuts
4 washers
1 extruder gear
1 set screw
1 bearing
1 bearing arm
1 bowden tube
1 bowden end
1 bowden end bracket

2 lengths 150 pound Kevlar string for bracing
2 turnbuckles
4 wood screws

Epoxy
Crazy glue

DIY 3d printed tray for professional pick and place machine

Parker Dillmann needed a custom tray for electronic components to be served to his DP2006-2 Madell pick and place machine, so he designed them and 3d printed them on MakerGear M2 in PLA.
The tray works under realistic conditions.

Static electricity could be a problem on such PLA plastic tray, so solution would be to paint it with some antistatic coating or use different material. Maybe some type of conductive ABS treated with acetone smoothing to reduce fine electronic parts getting caught in the layers.

Similar trays could be probably adapted for different types of pick and place machines and probably all types of electronic components. This would be great opportunity for companies in the field to cut the cost or deliver 3d tray models with their machines or components.

Project homepage with stl files:

http://longhornengineer.com/2014/06/11/3d-printed-part-tray-for-a-pick-and-place/

Retro Populator open source kit will turn your 3d printer into pick and place machine for home manufacturing

Retro Populator is an open source project by Eric Boyd that developed a kit for your 3d printer to convert it into pick and place machine suitable for small scale home electronics manufacturing.

Project description from hackaday.io:

A jig and software for allowing a 3D printer to do electronics pick-n-place assembly. It populates boards, by retrofitting a 3D printer, hence Retro Populator.

Motivation: surface mount soldering is great, but the process of placing parts is tedious and requires great manual dexterity as well good vision. Doing a few boards by hand is practical, but doing more than about 20 is hell on earth. Yet it's not practical (read: affordable) to pay industry to do it until about 500 boards - the setup charges just kill you. So there is this huge chasm between what's doable for hobbyists by hand, and where industry can take over, and this volume is commonly desired in the maker community - a small run of 50 to 100 boards is in fact typical. Thus, the desire to build machines that hobbyists can own to do electronics pick-n-place. Our cost-saving idea is to retrofit similar machines that makers already own: 3D printers.

Team:
Rob Gilson
Adam Evenden
Charles Hartlaub
Eric Boyd

There are several versions of Retro Populator being developed:

Version 1.0 : Essentially complete now. CNC milled acrylic base plate, with milled tape holders. Vacuum syringe for picking up parts, vacuum supplied by SMT rework station. Milled nozzle mount which attaches to the side of the existing extruder. Z-axis rezero jig to easily change re-zero height. 3D printed cam-lock parts to holds boards in place on 10mm peg-grid base. Code parses a yml file for board & tape placement info, and then an eagle .brd file directly for part types and locations. It generate a gcode file which goes from pick to place location for all of the parts which can be populated. Support for
multiple boards.

Version 2.0: currently in planning/design. Addition of tape advancement, including plastic cover peeling. Addition of a second nozzle which will do solder paste dispensing. Software will have 'position confirm' feature where it will move to the corner of each board, and the first component on each tape, so that you can verify key locations directly before running the entire job.

Version 3.0: part rotation. Numerous other things we'll learn about as we do V2.0, no doubt...

Detailed information and instructions:
http://hackaday.io/project/1605-Retro-Populator

Mind map and overview of the project in pdf format:

http://sensebridge.net/files/RetroPopulatorMap_V101.pdf

Maybe we will soon have thousands of small electronics factories in garages competing with corporate sector ...
But first who should be afraid of this competition are companies like Adafruit ... they are in the same market as those "hobbyists" ...

Hacking your 3d printer into home manufacturing solder paste dispenser

"Jake" and "hzeller" developed a project where KiCAD (open source electronics board development software) files are converted into g code to enable solder past dispensing with a DIY 3d printer on electronic boards.

They hacked a Type A machines printer into home manufacturing solder paste dispenser. The dispenser uses solder paste (aka. solder cream) applied trough syringe with air pressure. The team behind the project still has not released hardware specifications and details.

This project is interesting since it could enable anyone to make low cost desktop home manufacturing station and produce series of electronics boards.

The syringe dispenser pressure unit can be done at home workshop, here is a different project for reference:

https://www.sparkyswidgets.com/portfolio-item/diy-solder-paste-dispenser/

Solder paste is heated after dispensing on electronics board surface to melt and fuse the conection closing the electric circuit.

Here is the original code for solder paste dispensing that converts KiCAD files to g-code:

https://github.com/hzeller/rpt2paste

the project is further developed to include pick-and-place capabilities:

https://github.com/hzeller/rpt2pnp

Now you can start your own small desktop electronics factory :-)

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